Wall Street Rag

Replica of Henry Hudson's Half Moon as it approaches Manhattan
Replica of Henry Hudson's Half Moon as it approaches Manhattan

Wall St. In The News

Wall Street is in the news again, though this time the famous NYC avenue is headline material because of the ‘Occupy Wall Street’ activities that are taking place in Manhattan and other sites around the nation. Members of the loose-knit movement are adamant about the reform of Wall street and the banking industry, especially since the crash of the banking industry that occurred in 2007 and 2008. In fact, splinter and support groups can be found in various places around the country. There is a even a small group here in Des Moines that has set up an encampment right outside the state capitol building.

Wall Street Skyline from the Staten Island Ferry
Wall Street Skyline from the Staten Island Ferry

History

Wall Street has a long history as a place of business that dates back to the early 18th century. And before that the Manhattan Island real estate was part of a defensive barrier created by the Dutch to prevent an English takeover of the strategic piece of land. For it was the Dutch, not the English who first explored the rich delta that lay at the mouth of the Manhattes River. Nowadays, the river is called the Hudson, but beginning in 1607 and 1608, Dutch explores such as Adrien Block, Henry Hudson and Henry Christiaensen visited the mouth of the river, while searching for the famed ‘Northwest Passage’.

Fur Traders

Though the Northwest Passage was never found, Block and Christiaensen made repeated trips to rich estuary that includes present-day Staten Island, Manhattan and Brooklyn, along with Nassau. Here, they developed a lively fur trade with the surprisingly friendly Indians and in 1626 New Amsterdam was created as a colony of Holland. However, peace with the Indians did not last long, leading to conflict between the coloninsts and the Native Americans.

The Wall

In 1653 a wooden wall constructed from upright pointed logs was constructed to give the Dutch settlers some defense against English attacks. This long line of defense would become the Wall Street of today. Though it should be noted that in 1664, New Amsterdam was taken over by the British by a surprise attack. In the end New Amsterdam was lost to the English Crown without one shot being fired.

The Slave Auction

In 1711 Wall Street began its entry into the business world, when a busy, slave auction was established at this location. Placement of the commercial exchange has inspired such musical numbers as “Wall Street Rag” by Scott Joplin (1909), a “Wall Street Wail” by Duke Ellington (1930) and W.C. Handy’s “Wall Street Blues” in (1929).

NYC Harbor

Today, the buildings of Wall Street make for a commanding view, especially when viewed from the Staten Island Ferry as it crosses the NYC harbor. In fact the whole bay is part of a beautiful watery world that leaves one wondering what life was like here at the early years of the 17th century, when the early explorers were first encountering the Native Lenapi and Munsee population.

The Movement

The current protest situation only underscores how much life has changed in the last several centuries and how different the challenges are today. For an interesting insight into what is going on with the demands of ‘Occupy Wall Street’ protestors and the activities of the finance industry, check out this interesting post at ‘Litkicks’, called “Honest Capitalism.

Henry Hudson Arrives In New York Harbor by Edward Moran (1898)
Henry Hudson Arrives In New York Harbor by Edward Moran (1898)

Visiting the World Trade Site

Cranes at the World Trade Construction Site in New York
Cranes at the World Trade Construction Site in New York

On The Ground At the site of the World Trade Center

I was in NYC last week (just for one night) and the first place that I visited was the World Trade Center Construction Site in Lower Manhattan. To a young child born since 2001, the locale might just be another group of high rises going up in a city that is filled with these kinds of structures. However, to us older folks, September 11, 2001 is a day of infamy, when three towering NYC buildings came crashing to the ground of being struck by jet airplanes.

The Site Today

Today the site is a beehive of activity. First there is the everyday flow of city pedestrian traffic. Then figure that a large area of several blocks has been roped off and fenced in, so it cannot be used by the general public. This also increases the pedestrian traffic aroungd the construction work. Then add all the visitors, who have come just to watch the places be prepared. All in all, that figures to be a ot of congestion. Still the builds are going up, giving a NYC an air of confidence. Remember, it’s been many years since NYC has seen such a large undertaking.

World Trade Skyline
World Trade Skyline

Best Free Ride In America

Lower Side NYC Skyline Viewed From the Staten Island Ferry
Lower Side NYC Skyline Viewed From the Staten Island Ferry

Free Ride

The Staten Island Ferry just may be one of the best free activities in all the US. These boats carry passengers only back and forth from Manhattan’s Lower Eastern tip to Staten Island. Designed as a commuter transport that run around the year, this 25 minute one way trip also attracts an inordinate amount of tourists and sightseers. Where else can you get a grand view of the Statue of Liberty, the Manhattan Skyline and Brooklyn Bridge in less than an hour without paying a dime, unless you splurge for a hot dog or ice cream. And don’t forget the majestic Verrazano Bridge that gateway to the sea, where all the oil tankers pass through on their way to harbor.

The Ferry at dock
The Ferry at dock

Details

During peak hours the ferry company of New York has to keep as many as five of these boats in service to service the commuter traffic. Once on board there are many places to sit indoors, where the temperatures are kept warm, no matter what the month. However, non-locals tend to flock to the open-air docks, where they can watch all the sights pass by and smell the salt air. Perhaps the best time to make the one-hour round trip is just after dusk when the lighted up buildings are accented by the dark blue afterglow of the twilight. The terminals are also an unique experience, as travelers get a chance to mingle with the large local crowds that are always traveling back and forth on the large metal watercraft.

Statue of Liberty surrounded by sailing schooners
Statue of Liberty surrounded by sailing schooners

The Joy of Reading

The Reading Room of the Boston Public Library
The Reading Room of the Boston Public Library

You don’t need a big room like this to enjoy reading, yet there is something very conducive, perhaps even seductive, about an airy library space that entices the book browser to sit down and enjoy an extended period of quiet and intellectual stimulation. Quiet reading places can be usually be found at home, but use of a public place to sit down and absorb an engaging piece of literature is also very rewarding.

Both Boston and New York have excellent public library systems, each with their own late 19th century edifice that is worth a visit just to admire the exquisite architecture and interior design of each place. When in New York be sure to check out the Rose Room on the second floor of the library at Bryant Park. With an elaborate wood decor and heavenly murals placed across the ceiling, this vast space is like the Sistine Chapel of US libraries.

Besides the exquisite Reading Room the Boston Public Library has a pair of lions and and several gallery spaces are worth checking out, plus a fancy restaurant called Sebastian’s. All in all, it is a great space to spend a few minutes or the whole day.

Bookstores, although not as ornate, still can provide a rich experience for those who like the idea of having a printed word or image that has been printed on paper and bound within a soft or hard cover. Of course, the idea is to purchase a book and take the reading material home. How these institutions will survive the growing phenomena of  the e-books is beyond me, but I do enjoy visiting the brick-and-mortar merchants and bringing home a new book.

New York Library as seen through the trees at Bryant Park.
New York Library as seen through the trees at Bryant Park.

In retrospect, anyone visiting NYC or Boston ought to check out these institutions along with the adjoining plazas and park areas. In the process you will learn much the creation of both interior and exterior public space in two of the Northeast’s most important cities.

A Quick Look at NYC

The Christmas Tree at the Rockefeller Center in Midtown New York
The Christmas Tree at the Rockefeller Center in Midtown New York

I had the pleasure of riding the Greyhound bus from Montreal to New York City and then continuing my journey to  South Carolina, where I will spend the holidays. Fortunately, I was able to squeeze a twelve-hour stopover in the “Big Apple”, where I got to partake in a busy December Saturday, when everybody was out and about. Many were Christmas shopping others were just enjoying the sunny weekend day.

First stop for me was the grand ole library at  Bryant Park. This landmark city building was jam-packed with visitors and users. An exhibition concerning the origin of three major religions (Islam, Judaism and Christianity) from one small region of the world (the eastern edge of the Mediterranean) was the big attraction, but the spectacularly high and ornate ceilings of the Rose Room attracted many sightseers as well as regular users.

Outside the massive limestone walls stood Bryant Park. The ice rink was filled with skaters, who struggled to navigate their way through the mass of humanity that was out on the ice. The rest of the tree-lined park was home to a myriad of artisans, who had their works out on display for all to see.

From the Public Library I boarded the subway and headed downtown to the Soho area. Next, came a visit to Katz’s on Houston Street for lunch, but a line ran halfway down the block from the front entrance, discouraged a visit to this well-known eatery.

The trees at Bryant Park
The trees at Bryant Park

Instead, a couple of slices of pizza and a Mexican beer at nearby Ray’s was my lunchtime repose. More wanderings took me further south where soon I was strolling at the base of the Wall Street tall towers. This is the lower section of tall towers, where the once majestic WTC once stood. This conglomeration of tall towers is located a good distance away from midtown Manhattan, where such giants as the Empire State Building, Pan Am building, Rockefeller Center and Chrysler Building form the rocketing skyline.

The Brooklyn Bridge was a popular walkway, filled with pedestrians despite the cold winds that carried across East Bay and the East River. As dusk approached the partially-clouded sky created dramatic lighting that filled the western sky. Even with the great view, I was still happy to arrive back on solid land, where I could seek shelter from the wind at one of the many small coffee shops that frequented the Wall Street area.

By the time I reached the Staten Island Ferry Terminal at the tip of the island, darkness had set in. Even so the huge metal and glass atrium was filled with a mass of humanity, all waiting for the arrival of the large metal transport. The crowd of a thousand plus people packed into the vessel with ease and quickly departed the dock for the short crossing. I stood at the rear deck of the boat watching the Manhattan skyline recede into the distance. With the bow of the ship acting as a windbreaker the ride was much warmer than my walk upon the Brooklyn Bridge.

Upon my return to Manhattan I went underground and rode the subway to Rockefeller Center, which now had a large skating rink and Christmas tree installed at its base. However, the biggest attraction was the window displays at Saks Fifth Avenue and Macy’s. After cruising by the glowing windows one last walk awaited me. Although by this time the night had become quite cold and windy, the neon marquees still lit up the night with their colorful messages. Finally, I entered the confides of the port Authority Building where it felt good be out of the cold.  All in all it was a busy 12 hour break from my overland journey.

Wall Street Sunset
Wall Street Sunset
Saks Fifth Avenue Window Display
Saks Fifth Avenue Window Display

Montreal In November

Old House on Rue Saint Denis photo by Everett Autumn
Old House on Rue Saint Denis photo by Everett Autumn

I just figured out that I probably going to be stuck here in Montreal for the next week. Actually, stuck is an inappropriate word, for a thoroughly love Montreal and will enjoy my extra week here immensely. This extra time will me a chance to catch up on all those things I mean to do, but never got around to.

The cause of this action is two-fold. First, the bus prices to NYC just got jacked up for the Thanksgiving Holidays, so I’ll be saving money in that regards. My original intention was to arrive in the Big Apple on Thanksgiving Eve and stay in the city for Holiday Madness that follows. However the idea of spending Black Friday in Canada, which celebrates their Thanksgiving Day on October 12 grows more appealing as the holiday approaches.

December will still be a fine time to spend a week in our most popular city until I head south of the Mason-Dixon line for the Christmas and New Year’s celebrations.

The other factor that comes into play concerns my overall reason for the journey and that is spending time with my family. A week or two wait might actually enhance that visit as well.

Meanwhile here are a few pictures from around Montreal to give readers a chance to partake a glimpse of these vibrant bi-lingual Canadian city.

Color abstraction from two "No Parking Signs, Montreal
Color abstraction from two "No Parking Signs, Montreal photo by Everett Autumn

And finally a humorous look at Canada’s bilingal  program, which is evident everywhere.

Night Train

daybreak
daybreak from a train window

This past weekend I was in New York city for the first time in over 20 years. The main function was a family event that took place on Saturday afternoon, so I didn’t get much time to explore the city until about 5 PM, when all my people hopped on a charter bus back to PA, while I got a chance to wander around the city for a few hours until my train pulled out of Penn Station at 3 A.M. As it turned out it was a most fascinating few hours. NYC is like that; a great place no matter what the time of day (or night).

First stop was the Whitney Museum, where the “Abstract Paintings of Georgia O’Keefe” were enjoying their last weekend, before they got taken down. As a result the place was mobbed, and I had less than a hour to enjoy the exhibit, but as far as I was concerned there was not much else to see. That’s because the museum curators had taken down the permanent collection and were preparing to display the Biennial in February. Actually, this was a blessing in disguise for I got to spend the whole time wondering through the multitude of people who had packed the third floor in a sometimes successful effort to find an unobstructed glimpses at one of  the many wonderful abstractions of Ms. O’Keefe.

sunrise from a train
sunrise from a train leaving NYC

Her abstract really is quite unique, for it is nothing short of visual poetry. And this exhibition had a few of her real classics. Included were some of the small intense watercolors she made while teaching art in West Texas (one of the most visually unique places in the country), some botanical abstracts, the tiny black sphere on a large black plane piece, clouds, desert doors and more. To round out the show, there were even a few of Stieglitz’s photographs with Georgia as the au natural model. No wonder the place was jammed; it was a very intelligent show.

From the Whitney I headed downtown wandered around the East Village for a cold half hour in search of the former art scene that once graced this part of town and found little. Instead New Yorker pizza and a warm place to sit pulled me inside. Then back into the cold again and across Houston Street to Soho. Did not get as far as all the Soho galleries, but instead found a nice book store with a coffee bar, definitely a sign of the times, if there ever was one.

night train 2
smoke from a power plant viewed from the Amtrak train

Then it was back on the subway and up to 23th street, where I stopped by my bed and breakfast to pick up my luggage and then on to Penn Station, where I had a reserved seat on the 3:10 to Boston. Since I had a few hours to kill, I swung  by Grand Central just to take a peak at what a real train station looked like. After checking out the classic late 19th century architecture I arrived at the modern and low ceilinged Penn Station and hunkered down for the lengthy wait.

The scene at Penn Station was definitely unique, for the cold weather had forced quite a few homeless into the large labyrinth of walkways, fast food joints and waiting areas. The city police were not in  a mood to force loiterers back out onto the street, so they just dealt with the troublemakers of which there were only a few. Because I was a ticketed Amtrak rider, I got to sit in a special lounge and wait for my train to leave, an event which kept getting postponed.

Finally, at 6:30 the Boston Special pulled out of Penn Station with only several dozen passengers to fill the long line of cars. Free food and drinks were offered to all to compensate for the long delay, so I had a beer and hot dog for breakfast, as I got to watch the horizon turn red above the Long Island Sound. The sunrise actually made the wait worthwhile, as it created a surreal world of solid black shadows, shimmering lights and an indigo and crimson sunrise. My amazing little point-and-shoot digital handled the dark exterior scene as well as can be expected. (you can view the results above) It was a perfect complement to the O’Keefe show.

Buon Anno, Everett Autumn

day view
view from a train window